Contents
Chapter 1 Introduction
Chapter 2 Wave Theory
2.1 Introduction
2.2 Mathematical Description of Wave Motion
2.3 Linear Wave Theory
2.4 Stokes Wave Theory
2.5 Solitary Wave Theory
2.6 Applicability of Wave Theories
Chapter 3 Random Waves
3.1 Introduction
3.2 Probabilistic Properties of Random Waves
3.3 Statistical Description of Wave Records
3.4 Wave Spectrum
Chapter 4 Wave Transformation
4.1 Introduction
4.2 Wave Shoaling
4.3 Wave Damping
4.4 Wave Refraction
4.5 Wave Diffraction
4.6 Wave Reflection
4.7 Wave Breaking
Chapter 5 Nearshore Currents
5.1 Introduction
5.2 Radiation Stress
5.3 Nearshore Circulation
5.4 Wave Set-up and Wave Set-down
5.5 Wave-induced Longshore Current
Chapter 6 Noncohesive Sediment Characteristics and Transport
6.1. Introduction
6.2. Charactersitics of Noncohesive Sediment Motion
6.3. Bed Forms and Bed Roughness
6.4 Bed-load and Suspended Load Transport
6.5 Cross-shore Sediment Transport
6.6 Longshore Sediment Transport
Chapter 7 Cohesive Sediment Characteristics and Transport
7.1 Introduction
7.2 Charactersitics of Cohesive Sediment Motion
7.3. Mud Transport by Currents
7.4. Mud Transport by Waves
Chapter 8 Coastal Morphological Processes
8.1 Introduction
8.2 Types of Coasts
8.3 Beach Description
8.4 Beach Response to Coastal Engineering
8.5 Numerical Models of Shoreline Change
8.6 Shoreline Retreat due to Sea Level Rise
Acknowledgements
Bibliography